The Kalymnos Workshop 2016
Hosted by Adrian Berry with Gareth Parry, Lucy Creamer, and Simon Rawlinson
The original climbing coaching holiday, and in terms of positive feedback and results, undoubtedly the best, the quickest and most cost-effective way of improving your climbing. Run by professional climbers with many years' coaching experience, this is a 'course' unlike any of its subsequent immitators. The emphasis is on progress through hard work and you can expect to be pushed hard! This coaching holiday covers all the finer points of the sport climbing game, but is relevant to all climbers.
September 17th - 24th
>Updates will be posted here
The setting for this week is the fabulous Greek island of Kalymnos. We stay in the town of Massouri which is a short walk from the crags. It is usually reached via a flight to Kos and a short ferry journey.
Who's it for?
This trip is suitable for anyone who sport climbs and wants to improve. We recommend you are leading at a minimum of French grade 5 on rock and need you to be keen to push that.
Climbing partnerships and individuals are all very welcome. Couples are welcome, though we strongly suggest that you 'split up' for the week and climb with other people. The most important thing is that you are motivated to improve, like to be pushed, and are willing to push yourself.
This week does not cover the basic safety skills of sport climbing, and there is no supervision of the safety aspects of the sport, we expect everyone to be able to sport climb safely and independently.
How it works
Numbers permitting, we now offer a multiple workshop programme. Rather than having one itinerary that everyone follows, the coaching team has been increased from the usual two to four and group members will choose from the program of workshops the ones they wish to attend. Workshops are chosen in advance, but changes are fine. The overall group size will be larger than previously, but we aim to maintain a client to coach ratio of between 1:4 and 1:5. There will be a minimum of 3 sign-ups required for a workshop to operate.
Each climbing day we get an early start and walk up to one of the nearby climbing venues. There the coach(es) will give a presentation and where appropriate, a demonstration of the subject of the day and you have the remaining time to put it into practice. The coach(es) will be at hand throughout the day to answer questions and help where needed. There is one rest day in the middle of the week when there is no coaching. If you are around on the final Saturday, you will have most of the day to climb - though there is no coaching on this day.
||Arrive late in the night
||Low Grade Intro & Basic low angle technique at Afternoon Slab [4 - 6b]
||Mid Grade Intro including fall practice and dynamic belaying at Kalydna [6b and above]
Fall practice and dynamic belaying at Poets [5+ and above]
||Introduction to Tufas and Steep Rock at Panorama [6b and above]
||Telendos - Irox (will require payment for the ferry) [3 and above]
||Serious Steepness at the Grande Grotta and Parorama [6b and above]
||Onsight & Flash Spartacus to Afternoon [5+ and above]
||Redpointing Day 1 Spartan Wall to Grande Grotta [6b and above]
Multi-Pitch Day 1 School 5 and above
||Onsight & Flash Spartacus to Afternoon [5+ and above]
||Redpointing Day 2 Spartan Wall to Grande Grotta [6b and above]
Multi-Pitch Day 2 Telendos or Afternoon [6a and above]
||Bonus climbing day then travel back - or stay on out and climb...
The evening programme
Each evening we will be giving presentations on themes such as the psychology behind climbing, training, and nutrition. The exact topics will be determined by the coaches present, which in turn is determined by numbers.
Twin rooms are booked at the Oasis Hotel in Massouri. If you wish to arrive earlier or stay later, please feel free to get in touch with the hotel and they will do their best to accommodate. You are of course free to make arrangements to stay elsewhere and the price will be reduced accordingly. Single rooms are available on request, and subject to availability.
Getting there and getting around
Detailed directions on getting there will be circulated via a google doc. Most choose to fly to Kos via Easyjet then take the late ferry to Kalymnos. The crags are a short walk from the accommodation.
Should a coach be unable to attend the trip due to injury or ill-health, a substitute with equal experience and ability will be found. The actual number of coaches is determined by the number of places filled - one coach is hired for each four people booked.
The September 2015 Kalymnos Workshop will be coached by Gareth Parry and Lucy Creamer.
||Adrian Berry has been climbing since 1988 and coaching climbing since 2002 when he began the planetFear coaching program. Adrian has coached numerous individuals and climbing clubs, including several clubs and operational units within the armed forces. He has delivered lectures and masterclasses at the request of the sport's governing bodies in Denmark and The Netherlands, provides instructor training at a major UK climbing wall, and has written two books (Sport Climbing+ and Trad Climbing+) which helped herald the new approach to the teaching of climbing. Adrian has climbed competitively internationally, sport climbed up to 8b+, trad climbed up to E9, and bouldered up to V10.
||Gareth Parry works extensively as a climbing coach to a wide range of clients from individuals wanting to learn basic techniques through to the British Compeitition Climbing Team as they prepare for the possibility of climbing becoming an olympic sport. Over the years, Gareth has run numerous climbing coaching holidays as a member of the planetFear coaching team, including several coaching trips to Fontainebleau. Gareth's climbing achievements are broad and deep, from big wall free-climbing, through sport climbing up to 8c, Gareth has long been on the UK's most capable competition climbers. Gareth currently lives in Spain with his partner and rapidly growing zoo of pets.
||Lucy Creamer has been climbing for around 25 years and in that time has excelled at numerous different styles of climbing. Her exploits range from pushing on-sight standards in trad and sport climbing, competing internationally and also new routing in Greenland and the Outer Hebrides. She claims to be one of the weakest elite climbers she knows and as such has developed a technique that helps her to overcome crux sections in unique ways. This means that when coaching, Lucy draws on this technical ability to help others to utilise their existing strengths in the most economical way. This method combined with a keen interest in the complex mental side of climbing, means that Lucy is able to help people make improvements with even the most subtle changes. Lucy lives in Sheffield with her sports-photographer partner Tim Glasby and their two rescue dogs; she is determined not to let the ageing process curtail her climbing just yet!
Simon Rawlinson has been a coach and mountain instructor for many years. His clients range from young climbers competing for Team GB, to individuals wanting to push their grade past their current boundaries. He is an incredibly talented all-round climber with significant ascents on both rock and ice. His enthusiasm toward coaching is matched only by his desire to achieve the illusive perfect climb. Over twenty years of climbing has lead to Simon reaching a very high standard with 8a onsights and first ascents of many routes up to 8b. He takes particular pride in showing climbers what dedication and hard work can really achieve! He shares his climbing passion with a love of photography and many of his striking images can be found in galleries across Wales.
“The course has changed my understanding of what I can achieve, left me motivated to make further progress and hopefully go again next year.”
“Thanks! I loved it and will be working on my climbing using all the new information.”
“I really enjoyed the week. I wanted to be pushed to my limit and I was.”
“It's really like I've discovered climbing again for the first time and I'm currently resetting my targets for things I never would have thought I would be able to climb.”
“Thanks for an epic week and for sharing your knowledge and enthusiasm. It's totally changed my approach to sport climbing and I can't wait to put all the stuff I've learnt into practice.”
“Thanks again for running a great trip, and for all your help with our climbing, it was fantastic!”
“We were extremely impressed and pleased with how you and Gaz were able to manage the instruction and coaching amongst all the group. I really can't imagine how you could improve on that.”
"The coaching was perfect. Not all top performers can convey the knowledge they have but I felt that you provided concise but eloquent coaching with a fair proportion of humour that made the sessions very enjoyable."
"I am so pleased with everything I did on the trip, I feel in some ways that Carpe Diem was the climb of my life - I have never felt any climb easier - it just came! I can't explain it! It just came!"
"I think you and Gaz work well together as a team and have slightly different styles which really complement each other. You're both very astute when it comes to watching someone climb and being able to give accurate and constructive feedback and suggestions."
"It was a fantastic trip, possibly the best I have ever been on, and certainly the best coaching trip."
"Thank you for a fantastic opportunity. I think I'm still on a high."
"Coaching was excellent. The very different personalities and approaches of Gaz and Adrian makes a perfect combination."
"Would definitely recommend the course to friends. Thanks for an excellent week."
£590. Price includes five days coaching and accommodation, it does not cover any food or travel.
Terms and Conditions
1) Climbing is inherently dangerous! During the week you will be pushed to and beyond your limits, you will be encouraged to fall and there is a very real risk of injury during the coaching holiday which you accept when you attend.
2) There is a risk of death or serious injury from, amongst other things, rockfall, equipment failure, and human error, which you accept when you attend this coaching holiday.
2) The coaches on this trip are not climbing lifeguards! By booking on the workshop you are representing that you are an experienced and competent sport climber who does not require any supervision or instruction in the safety aspects of the sport. Further, you agree to take responsibility for your choices and actions during the week.
3) To secure your place we require a deposit of £100. This is not refundable and your place is non-transferable.
4) The remaining amount of £490 is required to be paid by bank transfer two months before the holiday begins. This is not refundable except in exceptional cicumstances and entirely at our discretion. We recommend taking out travel insurance that covers the risk of you being unable to attend for any reason.
5) Coaches are human beings who can get ill, injured, and so on, and on occasion it may be necessary to substitute a coach for another of similar ability.
6) Coaches are hired based on numbers attending.
Once we have received your booking you will be given access to a google doc and you will need a google account to access this. The 'doc' has everything you need to know about how to get to the accommodation and what to bring. It also allows everyone to share information about themselves prior to the trip. If you have a google account associated with an email address different to the one used to make the booking, then please send this to the following email address.